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Terrariums are tiny indoor plant gardens growing inside of transparent containers. They are both beautiful and unique, capturing nature on a miniature scale. When totally enclosed, terrariums perform the basic functioning cycles of the earth. They require only minimal care and offer the distinctive opportunity of nurturing plants that could not otherwise survive indoors. The moist, humid environment formed within a terrarium is free of dust and insects, requiring little watering. Adjusting the ventilation of its container can control its ecosystem even further. A terrarium also offers the benefit of portability. It can be placed in various interior locations without generating climatic problems within, even when accommodating the most vulnerable plants. With the proper construction and care, terrariums may be closed and left untouched for months.
To begin building a terrarium, you must first choose the container you wish to use. Any clear container may be used as long as it’s large enough to house your plant selections, small enough to place indoors, and possesses a tight fitting lid. Most area garden centers offer a wide assortment of containers, available in both glass and plastic. Homemade containers should be erected of plexiglass or strong, thick glass. The container must be able to endure the stresses imposed by the weight of the expanding garden. If you chose to use a small 5- or 10-gallon fish tank, it should be glued at the intersections to insure sturdiness.
Plant selections should be carefully picked. Not all plants are suited to dwell in a terrarium’s high humidity. The ideal plants to use are those that flourish in swampy or wooded areas. Since the space in a terrarium is restricted, you should not choose plants that develop beyond one foot. Assertive plants, such as vines, should also be excluded. There are several groups of vegetation that offer miniature varieties that work well in a terrarium setting. Some excellent examples of plant life to include are: begonias, small palms, miniature orchids, miniature ferns, assorted mosses, wintergreen, hepatica, gloxinia, baby’s tears, African violets, maranta, and coleus.
Once a container and plants have been selected, you must decide where and how you wish the finished terrarium to be displayed. There are two main motifs that most terrariums seem to follow. The first design is the miniaturized landscape. This pattern commonly includes biological aspects such as stones, tiny ponds, and assorted small statues of animals. The second design consists of greenness, similar to that found in a rain forest. Whether you choose to follow a basic design or create one of your own, plant placements are imperative when emulating a scene from nature. If the terrarium is to be observed from one side only, place the larger vegetation near the back and the slighter ones towards the front. If the viewing area is broadened to all sides, center the larger plants and encase them with smaller plant life.
If the container you are to use is made of glass, the observation of the flora inside may be somewhat hidden. This is caused by reflections on the glass surface. Creating intense contrasts would be most helpful to curb this issue. The use of vibrantly colored plants, a wide range of plant heights, and adding small sections of white sand within would certainly generate more attention. For containers with clear foundations, keep the soil shallow near the front of the terrarium, slanting it up toward the rear. Including moss along the inside of the front and sides of the terrarium would also be an excellent tactic to hide the soil. Another attractive technique to conceal the soil is to prepare designs of colored sand, layered together next to the glass as the soil is added.
To begin assembly of the terrarium, cover the bottom and part of the sides of the chosen container with a layer of sphagnum moss. To help minimize the occurrence of foul odors, place a ½-inch layer of charcoal flakes over the moss. To ensure appropriate drainage, situate a ½-inch layer of gravel over the charcoal flakes. Although a typical potting soil would usually be acceptable to most plants, a soil mixture containing two parts loam, two parts coarse sand, and one part leaf mold does a remarkable job. A soil made up of 1/3 fir bark should be used when planting African violets, orchids, bromeliads, and other epiphytic plants. The soil height should be kept fairly low and be moderately low in nutrients. This will inhibit the growth of the vegetation, allowing them to conform to their miniature surroundings.
Begin planting by removing the plants you are using from their pots. Discard about ÂĽ of the soil around each plant. Place the plants in the terrarium and devise your planting arrangement. Organize each plant according to shape, size, and color, varying all to provide a distinct contrast. Remove the plants, recalling their final destination and make sure all the surfaces are clean. Try to use soil as dry as possible. Otherwise, when water is used in the cleaning process after planting, the soil may become overly wet. Start off by planting the smallest plants first, taking care to press down on the soil gently around each root system. To avert the development of disease, try not to permit the plants to touch the soil or the container. When all of the plant life has been placed in their final positions, prune to discard any decaying or dead areas. You may also wish to trim some of the plants to downsize them to their new surrounding. Clean the inside of the terrarium, removing any soil from the sides by using a syringe or a brush when needed. Spray the plants with water in an atomizer, removing any soil that may be left on their leaves.
The most important step to the success of any terrarium is the watering. The initial watering is the trickiest. Only add enough water to moisten the soil. Mold will cultivate quickly if over watering occurs. It is by far better to under water it. If the terrarium’s vegetation begins to wilt or discolor, simply add more water. As long as you don’t allow the wilting to progress, it will more than likely stop. If over watering does occur, use the lid of the terrarium to control the humidity. If moisture begins to condense, merely permit a little ventilation by removing or partially opening the lid. Continue this procedure until the excess moisture disappears. Now you may completely close off your terrarium, since it has attained a moisture balance. This balance is what allows a terrarium to be closed off for a prolonged period of time.
Placement of your finished terrarium is important. Although it is moveable and its position may be altered, the correct amount of sunlight is essential. Place it in good light, never exposing it to direct sunlight! Direct sunlight will cause heat to build up extremely fast in an enclosed glass or plastic terrarium. The heat will remain trapped in the terrarium, causing the internal temperature to soar quickly. The terrarium’s ecosystem will wane or die, if not noticed immediately.
Once your terrarium is closed and a stage of permanency has been accomplished, the preparation and energy exerted pays off tremendously. Terrariums are distinctive. They offer the luxury of maintaining an indoor garden with very little maintenance required. They make excellent gift ideas and are as original as the person creating them
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